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Home-->Crafts-->Picture
Frames
Everyone Likes a Picture Frame
Creating custom picture frames for friends and family is a great gift
giving project that's sure to please even those difficult to shop for gift
recipients. Everyone has a special photo or keepsake they've meant to have
framed. Making a custom frame to match may be the best gift of the season.
Best of all, it's a quick and simple project to complete with the right
tools and set up.
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Start with Matting
If possible, mat your intended photography or
artwork before cutting any stock. This will help you determine the final
dimensions of your completed frame, and the type of stock you'll want to
use. Although you can purchase pre-cut matting at your local hobby store,
using your own mat cutting system may be more economical, especially
if you have a lot of family and friends for whom you're making frames.
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Choosing Stock
Next you'll want to choose your stock. Picture frames don't require a lot
so your scrap pile can often yield a treasure of possibility. Carefully
match the color of your lumber to the artwork or photograph, and mat. It's
the mark of a meticulous craftsperson and it's sure to impress. If your
scrap pile doesn't cooperate, there are dozens of wood stock types
available in all colors and textures. Tip: If you're really in a hurry,
you can use ready-to-cut picture frame moldings.
Ripping to Width
Now rip
your stock to width. Use 3/4" lumber (you can go thicker but it's not a
good idea to go any thinner), and rip it at least 1 1/2" wide because
anything less will look pale and weak--like you skimped. And you wouldn't
want to leave a bad Yuletide impression.
Using a
good table saw and fence, rip enough length to account for the full
dimensions of your finished frame, leaving an inch or so extra at the ends
for good measure.
Rabbet the Backside
Cut a rabbet in the backside of your lengths to
accommodate the artwork, matting, and backer board that will be installed
in the finished frame. It helps to envision the thickness of the stock in
thirds, which is why 3/4" stock works so well. The rabbet should be no
shallower than 1/2" and should remove no more than 2/3rds off the
thickness so that there is at least a 1/4" left to profile an edge on the
front side. (See Illustration 1.) A 1/2" rabbet or straight router bit
will typically take a 3/8" width of cut. This is a good dimension that
will create a 1/2" by 3/8" rabbet in the backside of your frame. Although
your table saw can be used to cut this rabbet, a router table may be a
safer alternative. Chuck a 1/2" bit in your router table and rout the
backside of your frame members. |
The
Front, Inside Edge
Choose the style of molding profile you want along the front, inside edge
of your frame. Since there is only 1/4" of stock thickness left along this
edge, you'll want to keep this profile within a 1/8" tolerance to leave a
strong enough edge within which to hold the frame's contents. Leaving
anything less will create a raggedy looking edge or none at all. The
profile you choose here should remove no more than half the wood fiber
from this inside edge, so it's important to choose the proper type of
router bit. Bisecting the edge with, say a 1/4'' bit will leave just the
right amount of stock and create an attractively dimensioned inside border
for your frame. (See Illustration 2.) A cove bit or classic bit, for
example, would do nicely. In working with narrow widths, always use
feather boards on your router table. It saves fingers. |
Front,
Outside Edge
For aesthetics and eye appeal, a different edge profile works best along
the front, outside edge of your frame. If you've used a bead on the inside
edge, a Roman Ogee, Classic Roman, or Ogee Fillet would look nice on this
outside edge. Taking away no more than half the wood fiber is a good rule
for sake of both appearance and strength. (See Illustration 3.) Tip: this
edge can be profiled after glue-up, which sometimes results in better
looking corners. |
The Back, Outside Edge
(Optional)
As an option, you may want to also profile the back outside edge of your
frame. To maintain structural integrity and good appearance, don't remove
more than half the remaining amount of stock from this edge should you
choose this option. |
Miter Cut To Dimension
Once the frame members have been profiled to
your liking, you can move on to cutting your miters. Use this handy
formula to get the total length of each side:
[Length of
Mat] - [width of rabbet]x2 + [width of frame]x2
Miters can
be cut with a power miter saw, manually with a hand miter saw, or at your
table saw with a miter gauge or miter jig set to a 45° angle (for square
or rectangular frames).
Trimming to Fit
Dry fit your frame. If the frame members are cut well, they'll fit. If
not, a little trimming is in order. Don't be tempted to trim cut your
mitered edges, it could end up in disaster. Instead, lightly sand them to
fit with a stationary disk sander or use a miter trimming tool. This will
give you more control over stock removal.
Gluing Up
Glue up your frame using a good
web clamp or
frame
clamp. Instead of standard yellow glue, a good epoxy is best in this
situation. It holds firmly against the end grain of the frame members.
Let the glue-up set until the epoxy cures.
A Decorative Option
As another option, you may want to spline the
corners of your frame. This is a decorative approach to frame joinery that
will be highly appreciated by your gift-giving recipient. The use of a
contrasting wood for corner splines--a dark wood such as walnut or
mahogany--can further accentuate this attractive element. A router table
or table saw with a V-jig or Tenoning Jig can be used to cut
accommodating slots for your splines along the outer edge of each corner.
A 1/8" slot works well and leaves enough room on either side for a
balanced look. Most table saw blades cut a kerf of about this size. Always
cut the slots for your splines after you've profiled the edges with
your router, otherwise you risk routing into your beautiful corner splines
when you profile the edges.
Finishing Up
There are many good finishing alternatives for
picture frames (which will not normally need to endure a great deal of
wear or stress). A good-quality oil finish will achieve a nice luster,
but wax or polyurethane will also do |
Wrapping Up
Now that your beautiful, hand crafted frame is complete you may have
trouble giving it away. If so, you'll need to make another. But before you
wrap it for Christmas, make sure to brand your signature on it with your
"hand crafted by" branding iron because you'll be creating a high-quality
family heirloom that will be cherished for generations.
This article provided by Rockler Woodworking and Hardware |
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